LARGO DAS ARTES: DAY 58

I left Sao Paulo this morning at 12.15 travelling by coach with Reunidas company at Terminal Tiete. I said goodbye to Mariana Bern, my friend, and her dog Bira. I will never forget their great hospitality. 

It was a 7 hours trip with two stops. My travel friend was Pierre Halle' (photo 3) from South Africa, a real Viking, we chatted and chatted and I figured out after a while he was connected with my investigation on invisible matters. He was raised on a bush so not contaminated by fluoride water that he thought could have controlled human cells. So he was able to open the third eye and utilise most of his brain capabilities. He thought that we are spiritual beings doing in Earth a physical experience rather than vice-versa. I found this saying very interesting.

Finally I arrived at Paraty at 7.15pm. It was already dark and I had some problem in finding the Pousada Estalagem Colonial...It looked as nobody knew about it plus the streets were made with irregular cobblestones so quite difficult to walk... Finally I founded the place and I was happy when Ricardo, the owner, opened the door. There was another Bira dog, much older (17 years old), welcoming my arrival while entering the big and modest room. An angel was protecting me above the bed.

A quick shower and I was out for dinner. I found this place very cosy and familiar so I decided to spend the night there. I met the friendly Pedro and Zaca Orsi that were able to speak Italian. The owner projected a Bossa Nova old video for me and after eating a 'parmiggiana' with a glass of red wine I started to sing and dance as I was at home! I spent a  really beautiful first night at Paraty!

LARGO DAS ARTES: DAY 57

Monday is a perfect day for visiting Sao Paulo centre because most of galleries and museums are closed. Edificio Martinelli was a good one to visit. I knew there was a guide on the level 26 explaining everything about the building while walking around an astonishing 360degree panoramic terrace. 

The guide Edison Cabral explained that Giuseppe Martinelli was an Italian master builder from Tuscany that arrived in Brazil as an immigrant in 1892 attracted by the coffee plantations. With the fortune he made with his shipping coffee business he built this palace in 10 years (1924-1934) with the Hungarian architect William Fillinger.  

From there I passed by Centro Cultural Banco do Brazil but I decided to keep going because there was a huge queue at the entrance for Picasso show. I visited the Cathedral and the stunning Sao Bento church instead but I couldn't take photos in there. Plenty of homeless people along the streets...

Thanks to Lonely Planet guide's suggestion (my traveler's bible) I went to visit the covered Belle Epoque style Mercado Municipal. It was an amazing market where the Brazilian ability to sell and package culinary items excelled! 

After the market I met these two singers and story tellers Pernabu and Alagoas. Peneira & Sonador one of the best duo of improvising rimes or  Emboladores e Repentistas in Brazil. They were amazing and it was so hilarious hearing them improvising a story about me and my husband Chris so far apart and trusting each other. I recorded it with my tape recorder as a birthday present for Chris!

I finished my day with the visit to the studio/home of Lidia Lisboa the Brazilian artist I met at Galeria Rabieh. It was so inspiring to see how Lidia can work in such a small place producing hips of work and storing it in her bedroom, kitchen and entrance of her apartment. Even her dog has learnt how to live with Lidia's world! Lidia is thinking to try to sell her artwork overseas such as New York because at Sao Paulo there is no market for her. She will be part of SP Art Fair at mid April, a big opportunity for her artwork to be recognised. I wished her best luck and we promised each other to stay in contact.